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                        Additives                                    Incubation/Fermentation

                   Casings                                        Linking sausages

                   Curing Salts                           Salami Molds

                   Emulsions                                 Salt

                   Grinder Tips                           Spices

                   Humidity Control        Starter Cultures

                                                                                            Storage

Additives Often Used in Sausage Making:

Ascorbates -  Sodium erythorbate (Sodium Iso-ascorbate) & Citric Acid: These chemicals reduce oxidation and subsequent off flavor and off-color that would result from oxidation . They speed the curing reaction by the rapid reduction of nitrates and nitrites to nitrous acid and ultimately nitric oxide that combines with myoglobin in the muscle tissues to fix the cured color. Generally, I try for about 0.01% for citric acid and 0.05% for erythorbate.

Cereal & Bread: These are principally starch and their purpose varies.  Generally they added to lower quality products for economical reasons, although they often improve binding quality, cooking yield and slicing characteristics. English sausage makers are fond of adding rusk, breadcrumbs or wheat gluten to their sausages; French and Cajun sausage makers often add rice.

Corn Syrup Solids:  The general use for corn syrup solids in sausage recipes is to enhance binding qualities of the meat, provide sweetening and assists in holding the color of the cured meat.  In dry-cured product, it aids the fermentation process by providing a carbohydrate source for lactic bacteria. Generally use 2% or less of the weight of the meat block.

Milk Powder, Dry: Non fat dried skim milk powder is used in a number of sausages. It used generally as a binder and helps cooked sausage retain moisture. It assists in forming irreversible gels (upon heating) that hold water and fat and helps to enhance the flavor of the product. When making cooked sausages, I generally hold it to less that 4%. Commercially the calcium reduced form of skim milk powder is used as calcium is said to interfere with protein solubility and emulsion formation.

MSG -Monosodium Glutamate: Monosodium Glutamate is a salt of glutamic acid. In Sausage making it is used as a flavor enhancer.  It is one of twenty two amino acids which create protein molecules in all plants and animal bodies. Therefore glutamate is naturally contained in almost all food products such as meat, fish, vegetables, milk, etc. Food products which naturally contain lots of free glutamate (e.g. tomatoes, cheese, mushrooms, etc.) are used in many food recipes because of their flavor enhancing properties. In sausage making, I try to keep MSG at approximately 1¼ grams to 454 grams (1 pound) of meat. Scientific examinations have proven that the application of MSG in food products does not have a negative effect on the human body. Although many people claim to be allergic to MSG, a board of scientists and medical doctors appointed by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has examined all existing reports on supposedly allergic reactions caused by glutamate. They have declared that there is no connection between glutamate content in food products and the appearance of symptoms such as numbness of neck and back (Chinese restaurant syndrome).

Phosphates: The phosphates I use (called AmesPhos) are a combination of: Sodium Tri-polyphosphate, Sodium Pyro-phosphate and Sodium Hexa-metaphosphate, generally at the rate of 1/3 to 1/2 of one percent (0.3 to 0.5%) of the finished product weight. The following paragraph is a direct quote for Joe Ames' website on the purpose and use of phosphates in sausage making.  I use this product regularly, and recommend to all sausage makers.

"Phosphates are used in a wide range of processed meat, poultry and seafood in which they perform several functions.  Phosphates improve the retention of natural fluids in the animal muscle that would otherwise be lost in the aging, cooking or freezing process.  They also act as protein solubilizers to aid in binding processed meats.  Their presence results in improved texture, flavor and color."

If you want to learn more please see his page. Joe Ames' Web-site

Soy protein: Soy protein isolate is used as binder as well as an emulsifier.  The levels of soy products that you use in sausage should be controlled so or they will impart a “beany” flavor to the  meat products. I like to use about 1.5-2% in my formulations; however, some sausage makers use up to 3.5%. Textured soy protein used in sausages, meat patties and meat loaves.  Soy protein concentrate available as coarse granules or grits is used in emulsion type sausages. 

Sugars: A number of different sugars can added to meat products like sucrose, dextrose, lactose, corn syrup solids, maple syrup, honey etc.  Often they are added for flavoring and also has some preservative action.  Sugars, called reducing sugars, improve the shelf life of the product.  Dextrose (glucose) is and essential in fermented sausages as a substrate for growth of fermenting bacteria.

Whey-Protein Isolate: Provides a smooth texture to the product by binds and entrapping water thus providing body, texture and improves sliceability, especially in loaves like mortadella. Whey forms stable, fat/oil emulsions that provide structure to the sausage. It also enhances non-enzymatic browning (Maillard Reaction).

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Casings, Artificial: There are a wide variety of artificial casings available on the web for the adventurous to seek out. I have listed below several types that I use most frequently. In selecting a casing you have to consider if you want it to be edible (yes, some artificial casings are edible). The edible casings are very thin and will not support the weight of the sausage in the smoker.

Collagen casings are made from collagen extracted from animal skins and hides. There are special collagen casings for use in the smoker, some are even dyed! Some of the large collagen casings, however, due to their thickness and production technique are not edible. Remember not to use collagen casings if you are processing your sausage by poaching in water or steaming. Collagen casings can also be used to cure salami.

Fibrous or Cellulose casings can come protein-lined for salami drying or "regular". They need to be soaked in warm water for about 30 minutes before use. They are permeable to smoke and water, and for that reason, should not be used for poaching sausages in water. They are made from cotton or wood fiber.

Plastic casings are water-proof and are mainly used for boiling or poaching sausage loafs and rolls in water.

Fabric casings are made out of textile fibers and are coated with a plastic and a very popular with some European sausage makers. If you look at my recipe for Thuringer Summer Sausage, you can see an example of this kind of casing.
 

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Curing Salts: Check the formulation carefully and be sure you use the correct cure; do not substitute! (Cure#1 and #2 are formulated in such a way so that 1 level US teaspoon will cure 5 pounds of meat.) For the best results, always weigh out the amount of cure!

contains 0.5% Sodium nitrite, 0.5% Sodium nitrate, Salt, Sugar, and Propylene glycol (for brined meats)

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Emulsion Notes: Emulsions are sausages where the meat is ground so finely that it encapsulates the fat to form a smooth paste such as is found in hot dogs, bologna, liverwurst, mortadella, etc.

Lean muscle fiber has a high myosin content. Myosin is the tem used to represent all salt soluble, water soluble and heat-coagulable proteins in the fibers. Emulsions are formed by solubilizing the meat protein and suspending the fat globules in the protein solution that contains both soluble proteins and collagen from the fiber's connective tissues.

A food-processor in the home sausage kitchen can do a fairly good job of forming an emulsion if a few precautions are taken. Using a large bowl processor, remember to work in small batches, about 1 1/2 lbs to 2 pounds of paste maximum.  During the emulsification process, considerable heat is generated. This will cause the emulsion to "break" by causing the proteins to coagulate preventing them to "grab-hold" of the fat globules. Ice or ice-cold water is added periodically to absorb the generated heat and ensure that the emulsion holds.

I use a Cuisenart food processor.  Generally I divide the spices meat into one and a half pound batches and process each batch for 2 minutes, pulsing often to ensure even emulsification.  I also add ice cold liquid (mostly water) a little at a time to keep the temperature below 60^oF (15^oC). Try to keep total liquid to less that 10%.

Hint: Place the product in 120^oF (49^oC) poaching liquid and gradually raise the temperature to 175^oF (79^oC). Gelatin can form from meat collagen during the cooking process and I found that if the poaching liquid temperature raises too rapidly or gets above 180^oF (82^oC), the gelatin often breaks from the emulsion and creates pockets and pools of gelatin (and or fat) dispersed in the emulsion.

I've had the best luck with moisture-proof plastic, fibrous or coated casings for emulsion sausages that are poached. I've used natural casings also; but, they often wrinkle after cooking and showering.  I've found that dipping the sausage in boiling water a few seconds, shrinks the casing and remove most of the wrinkles.

A sausage making buddy has a great solution to both humidity and temperature control by modifying a home-refrigerator by altering the temperature and humidity controls. You can read and see his elegant solution by clicking here: The Versa-Fridge

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Incubator for Fermenting Dry Cure Sausages:

You can make an inexpensive incubator for dry curing salami by modifying an inoperative freezer. I purchased an old Sears Coldspot from the dumps for $20 and removed the freezing unit, thermostat, interior racks and baskets.

Then I wired it with a couple of dimmer switches, mounted in a Square D box on the exterior of the unit with an outlet to provide power in and power out. On the power out outlet I plugged in a Vicks, 18 hour nursery humidifier. This provides about 95% humidity.

On the interior I installed a porcelain light socket. The dimmer switch on the control panel regulates a 100W light bulb which can be adjusted to produce temperatures from 53^oF to 110^oF. I'm worried that some moisture dripping from the incubating meats might break the light bulb, so I plan on either shielding the bulb with a coffee can open on both ends or replacing the light bulb with a ceramic reptile terrarium heater that screws into the light socket.

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Lactic Acid Starter: Starter cultures accelerate the formation of lactic acid and drop the pH (to about pH=5.3) of salami, which can  inhibit the growth of spoilage bacteria and pathogens. The rapid decline of pH not only gives the salami a unique lactic acid flavor, but also increases the firmness of texture and mouth feeling due to the acidic denaturation of meat proteins. The lactic acid bacteria (LAB) in starter cultures have been shown to inhibit Staphylococcus, gram-negative bacteria, and E. coli, by 97.8% after 48 hours of fermentation. Further studies of LAB starters (which often contain one or more species) of Pediococcus cerevisiae, Lactobacillus platarum and Staphylococcus carnosus, have shown a very wide spectrum of inhibition activity on Staphylococcus epidermidis, Lysteria monocytogenes  Klebsiella oxytoca, Shigella dysenteriae and germination of the spores of Bacillus subtilis  and Bacillus cereus, and Pseudomonas fluorescens.

I suggest that don't put your trust in indigenous bacteria that contaminate ground meats instead  purchase a lactic acid bacteria starter culture from a supplier, such as Butcher and Packer Company. Use those suggestions in lieu of those given with any formulation or recipe. When you choose a starter, check with the vendor or the manufacture's guidelines as to the required time and temperature  for optimum fermentation.  Dissolve freeze-dried culture in a couple of tablespoons of de-chlorinated water; add a small pinch of glucose (dextrose) and set aside for 2 or 3 minutes before use. 

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Mold Development: The growth of filamentous fungi on the surface of salami during ripening is an important factor for the quality of the product quality because it helps the biochemical changes involved in the process of maturation. Some of these fungi, however, can cause problems related to discoloration and off-flavor, as well as damage on the casings. In addition, some fungi are associated to health hazards due to toxin production.  .The growth of desirable molds on the surface of salami enhances the maturation process in by preventing the development of "case hardening" on the surface of the sausage. Penicillium mold degrades lactic acid that is produced throughout maturation, resulting in a slight pH increase and a decrease in sausage tang. Penicillium nalgiovense is a species of the genus Penicillium and it is a frequently used starter culture for mold ripened dry-cured sausages and salami.  P. nalgiovense related very closely to P. chrysogenum, a well known producer of the antibiotic penicillin. Similar strains of Penicillium are used in the cheese industry, for example, Penicillium camemberti and Penicillium roqueforti, used in the production of Roquefort and Camembert cheeses.

The surface growth of  P. nalgiovense suppresses the growth of other undesirable organisms such as indigenous molds, yeasts and bacteria. This species is indigenous to a number of areas in Southern Europe and the some areas of the United States, especially the San Francisco Bay Area. In these areas the mold grows rapidly on salami given the proper temperature and humidity. Optimum growth conditions are 64^oF/18^oC and 60% R/H.  In the picture on the left, the salami on the right side of the plate is covered with indiginous (wild) molds, whereas the on on the left has been inoculated with a Penicillium nalgiovense starter culture.

The major problem with letting native molds grow on the surface of your dry-cured sausages is that other non-desirable molds may also grow and some may be a health hazard. This is especially true if the proper humidity is not maintained.  Click on the picture at the right, it shows a number of indigenous molds that have grown on a salami cured under improper humidity. If you desire that nice white "bloom" on your salami, I suggest that don't put your trust in indigenous molds instead  purchase a mold starter culture from a supplier, such as Butcher and Packer Company.

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Salt: In fresh sausage, salt is used as a flavoring agent; however, in cured or dry-cured it is used as a curing agent as well as a flavoring agent.  The proper amount is critical to a proper cure. Different salts have different weights per unit volume. Table salt is the heaviest; Kosher is the lightest!  Make sure you using the proper amount. In fresh sausages, general rule of thumb is 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons of Canning or Table salt to 5 pounds of meat.  That will yield approximately 1% to 1.5% of salt in the product.  In making salami and other dry-cured product, the USDA guideline call for 2.5% salt.

When selecting salt, make sure it has no additives in it. I generally use a canning-type salt, which is pure Sodium chloride. Sea salt, which may be tasty on your grilled steak, has a number of "impurities" which can interact with other chemicals in your sausage formula. Not that it's bad, it would just give a different taste in some cases. Kosher or flake salt will give you less salt than you need if you just use a measuring spoon.  To be accurate, no matter which salt you end up using, you'll always get the proper amount if you weigh it out  on a scale.

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Spices: It is absolutely essential that you use fresh spices for consistent results.  If your ground spices are more than 6 months old, through them out and purchase new ones.  It is always better to purchase whole, un-ground spices and grind them yourself as needed...you'll be surprised by the difference! The most consistent results are obtained by accurate weighing of both the meats and the spices.  Keep your whole spices covered in air-tight tins to prevent the loss of volatile oils. Place the date of purchase on the tin! Whole spice should be renewed after two years.

For those of you that are considering making this a hobby, I recommend that you purchase a good coffee mill to dedicate as a spice grinder.  The quality your are looking for is a removable, stainless steel grinding cup.  Plastic and other material retain the spice oils and are difficult to clean. Also purchase TWO good electronic scales: One dedicated to measuring spices,  that will measure in 1/10 of a gram with a load limit of 454 gram (1 lb.); The other dedicated to meats should measure in grams up to 5 or 10 Kilograms (11 to 22 lbs).
 

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Dry cured sausages do not need to be refrigerated if keep in a cool, dry place.  Of course, if summer temperatures are very high, it's best to refrigerate them or keep them in a cooler so the fat does not render out. Some Italian cultures preserve their dry cured sausages under oil or lard. They may be kept for more than a year this way.

Smoked sausages that are then air-dried may also be kept for a short period out of the refrigerator...again use your judgment in relation to the air temperature. They maybe well packed and frozen, if you wish.

Cooked and Smoke-cooked sausages should always be kept under refrigeration.  Well packaged, they will keep for approximately 2 weeks under refrigeration or else they should be well packed and frozen.

Fresh sausages should be consumed within 3-5 days or else they should be well packed and frozen.

For the sausage hobbyist, I believe a worthwhile investment is the purchase of a vacuum sealer so that sausages can be vacuum packed and frozen. A system like the "Food Saver" ^™  by Tilia is a example of one of several systems on the market.

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-To be continued-