INTRODUCTION: I don't know about you, but my image of sausage depicts delicately spiced meats stuffed in casing and grilled to perfection; but I wasn’t sure I was capable of creating such a product. At first, I only made only sausage patties, because I wanted to see if sausage making was for me before investing in a bunch of equipment that I may never use again.  I realized that sausage making equipment need not be extensive nor expensive.

For example, I started with a Universal Chopper that I picked up in a second-hand store for $2.50...that was it.  As my proficiency grew, I added to and upgraded my equipment. First, I bought a new 3/4 hp #22 grinder, then a vertical stuffer. Recently I added a Bradley smoker to my equipment. My last purchase was a good meat slicer. For making dry-cured sausage, you'll need to provide humidity and temperature control.  More about that later. The most important item needed for sausage production, however, is clean equipment. Purchase was a good meat slicer. For making dry-cured sausage, you'll need to provide humidity and temperature control.  More about that later. The most important item needed for sausage production, however, is clean equipment.

Before any sausage making begins, I wash my stuffer bowl, grinder parts, bowls and measuring spoons in the dishwasher; then, I wipe the counter surfaces down with a 10% bleach solution.  I also use latex gloves when handling meat and mixing in the spices.

A note on sausage formulas:  Most formulations are my own creations, some have been copied and referenced from various sources. Those with my signature are my own creations. Others have been submitted to me for consideration and posting and their source identified. Feel free to adapt the ingredients and amounts to your own tastes; the formulas here are only meant to be guides. 

All my recipes are in Adobe Portable Document Format (PDF) so that they can be easily read and printed from your browser. You can download a free copy of Adobe Reader by clicking on the icon .

It’s my position that before you begin making sausages at home, you educate yourself about matters of health and safety.  Realize that by the time meat reaches the butcher counter, it has gathered a number of different kinds of bacteria just from handling. You must learn how to discourage the growth of harmful organisms in the ground meats you use for sausage making.  I found guidelines for the treatment of pork and pork products with regards to health on the both USDA and Canadian Food Inspection Agency websites (see links) to be very helpful.  Always be careful to prevent any further contamination and to always keep the temperature of the meat low enough to discourage further bacterial growth. Keep the meat refrigerated until its ready to be ground, and return it immediately to the refrigerator as soon as possible. Record copious notes of your procedure, changes in formula, cooking method, temperature, etc.

Before you begin any sausage making endeavor:

·        Obtain a notebook and begin recording everything you do while preparing the recipe: materials, grinding the meats, mixing the spices, etc. Record times, temperatures and humidity where appropriate.  Don’t rely on mental notes, jot important information down...it will be valuable for troubleshooting cases where you are dissatisfied with the product.

·        Read the entire procedure through, making sure you understand all the nuances of grinding, curing, spicing, etc. and have all the necessary materials at hand.

·        Assemble and scrupulously clean all equipment you will be using.  (don’t rely on the cleanliness of stored equipment and utensils.)

·        Use latex gloves when handling meats and mixing in cures and spices.

·        Keep all perishables refrigerated whenever possible through out the procedure.

·        Follow the meat preparation, curing spicing, cooking and/or drying times and temperatures precisely. Don’t make substitutions unless you completely understand the effects of the substitution...for example, saltpeter is NOT a substitute for cure #1 or Cure #2.

Prepare the meats for sausage by removing any bones. Next, look for and remove any glandular meat  between the muscle bundles—it will have a quite different texture and color than the muscle meat and give a bitter taste to your sausage. Trim away all silver skin (connective tissues: tough, thin shiny sheets) and any tendons (tough, dense white fibrous sheets).  Remove any visible blood vessels, also.  Save any small pieces of edible meat and fat from this trimming, but don’t mix it in with the “regular” meat you just trimmed….grind it separately. The picture on the right shows me boning out a pork shoulder butt.

In my recipes, I often use the terms 80/20, 95/5 and 50%.  The first number refers to the lean portion of the meat and the second number refers to the fat portion. Back fat is 100% fat!

The picture on the left shows Glenn, my “sausage-making buddy”, grinding up some pork shoulder. Once you start making and sharing sausages, you'll find that there are other people who make sausages or want to learn.  Although sausage making can be an individual thing, its much more fun when you have a buddy who also loves sausages! You'll practice with spicing and types of meats, the size of grind, etc. You may make a formula that would be a sure winner in a sausage-making contest!

We buy the pork in vacuum sealed bags...they come two “butts” to the bag and weigh in at a total of about 15-18 pounds (or 7-8 kilograms)  Some of you will be lucky enough to raise your own pork, I’m jealous!

Types of Sausage:

FRESH SAUSAGE: I think of fresh sausage as a sort of "meatloaf" in a casing.  My  definition of a fresh sausage is one in which NO curing is required in making the sausage.  The amount of salt present in fresh sausage formulations is not necessarily sufficient to cure the meat. Because the meat is not cured, it must be kept under refrigeration. Fresh sausages are very perishable and should be used within several days of their being made...or else they should be frozen. They usually take the form of links or patties. In my opinion, the beginning home sausage maker should gain extensive experience with making fresh sausage, before attempting to make cured sausage.

COOKED SAUSAGE: These are sausages that require the application of some sort of cure and heat as part of the formulation, such as smoking, poaching, steaming, etc. Once cooked, these sausages must also be kept under refrigeration because they are perishable. Cooked sausages can appear as links, rings, rolls, or loaves. If cooked sausages are smoked and have their moisture reduced to approximately 45%, they are sometimes referred to as SEMIDRY-SAUSAGES.  Summer sausage, Thuringer and Cervelat are examples of semi-dry sausages.

WET-CURED PRODUCTS: These products are prepared by curing the meat in a liquid brine, sometimes referred to as the “pickle”.  Salt, cure, and seasonings are generally mixed and dissolved in warm water, then cooled to refrigerator temperature. Often the meat is just kept submerged in the brine for the time specified in the formulation. Large, thick pieces of muscle meat are generally injected using a pump and needles to place the brine in the proper places in the muscle.  These injected pieces of meat are also kept submerged after pumping for the requisite time. The brine should only be used once since the chemicals in the brine react with the muscle proteins during curing and become used up, altering the concentration of the brine. Bacon, pastrami, ham and corned beef and corned pork are often cured using the wet-cure process.

DRY-CURED PRODUCTS: Dry-cured meats are those commonly held without refrigeration; example, Smithfield-type hams and salami among others.(<-moved from below) The meats used in these products can be ground, like in salami, or whole muscle meat like ham or prosciutto. Dry-cured pork products are often eaten uncooked.   It is strongly recommended that before attempting to make any dry-cure product that the reader review the documents linked below that relate to guidelines for the destruction of Trichinae (causes Trichinosis) in pork muscle.  Please be advised that the treatments described in those documents are not designed to destroy pathogenic bacteria that may also be present in meat.  Prescribed concentrations of salt are a necessity for making dry-cured sausage and meats. A lot of discussion can occur around this topic. Let me describe my understanding.  I understand dry-curing to be a treatment designed to destroy or reduce pathogenic organisms that may be found in pork. Among those organisms are Clostridium botulinum (causes Botulism),  Escherichia coli O157:H7, Listeria monocytogenes, and Staphylococcus aureus.  The use of salt, time, temperature and nitrites play important roles in the curing of meat. The curing and aging processes either kill or minimize these organisms so as they are not infectious.  There are strict guidelines regarding the processing, curing and aging of meats which are completely described in both the publications of the Food Safety And Inspection Service of the United States Department of Agriculture as well as the Canadian Food Inspection Agency.        

Trichinosis: Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, Division of Parasitic Diseases  View Fact Sheet

Curing: Canadian Food Inspection Agency - Chapter 4 Annex A:  Approved Curing Methods To Ensure The Destruction Of Trichinella In Sausages And Other Meat Products Containing Striated Pork Muscle Tissues. CFIA   View Citation

To be certain that sausages are Trichina-worm free, the sausage maker is encouraged to process the raw pork according to instructions in the above cited documents and summarized as shown in the table below. This will result in what is termed "certified pork".  If you wish to see an excerpt  of the USDA citation, click here —> Citation.

 Freezing Requirements for Trichina-free Pork 
Federal Meat Inspection Service - USDA

The Purpose of Sausage Ingredients

SALT: Essential to cure meat! Salt prevents the growth of some of the bacteria that are responsible for meat spoilage by either inhibiting the growth of those bacteria directly or removing enough water from the meat that they cannot survive. Salt also helps in extraction of the soluble proteins which help in binding of restructured meat products.  Salt is used both in dry cure as well as brining.  Only food grade salt should be used. Some people wish to have less sodium due to its relationship with hypertension and food grade Potassium chloride has been used to substitute for sodium chloride up to a 40% level. The use in a ratio of 40 : 60 reduces sodium up to 34 – 35 %.

CURING SALTS: Curing means to make the meat product inhospitable to spoilage microorganisms and to flavor, color, and tenderize the meat.  Meat can be cured either by the addition of salt alone or salt in combination with one or more ingredients such as sodium nitrite, sugar, and spices. The preparation and use of curing mixtures must be carefully planned and executed.  Curing is generally done under refrigeration (36°F / 2°C) and is essential when the formulation requires meat to be processed at low temperatures (under 140°F / 60°C)….while smoking, for example. Cures come pre-mixed and ready to use; they are usually added to the meat as an ingredient along with the other seasonings. 

"Curing salt" is available in several formulations: Cure #1 (also called Prague Powder #1) which contains pure salt and sodium nitrite; Cure #2 (also called Prague Powder #2) which contains pure salt, sodium nitrite and sodium nitrate; and proprietary formulations like Morton's Tender Quick. Careful attention must be paid to the sausage formulation to be sure that the correct cure is used!

Prague Powder #1: sometimes called "pink salt", Insta-Cure, Cure #1 or Modern Cure. This cure contains 6.25% sodium nitrite mixed with salt.  Use 1 level teaspoon of cure for 5 lb. of meat. (2.5 grams of cure per kilogram of meat)  Mix cure with cold water. This cure is not interchangeable with Cure #2.

Prague Powder #2: sometimes called Cure #2 or Insta-Cure #2 has 6.25% of sodium nitrite with 4% of sodium nitrate mixed with salt and must be used with any products that do not require cooking, smoking, or refrigeration. The sodium nitrate in this cure slowly breaks down into sodium nitrite, then into nitric oxide over a long period of time. Use 1 level teaspoon of cure for 5 lbs. of meat. (2.5 grams of cure per kilogram of meat)  Mix cure with cold water. This cure is not interchangeable with Cure #1.

Morton® Tender Quick® mix contains salt, the main preserving agent; sugar, both sodium nitrate and sodium nitrite, curing agents that also contribute to development of color and flavor; and propylene glycol to keep the mixture uniform.

Click on Tender Quick to get more information.
 

Nitrite added to meat delays development of the toxin that causes botulism and imparts the characteristic cured meat flavor and color we often associate with ham, bacon, salami, etc. Some cured meats such as bacon, country ham, salami, pepperoni, and Westfalian ham, for example, use sodium nitrate because of the long aging period involved in curing the meat. During this time, helpful bacteria (certain strains of micrococcus, etc.) can ferment the nitrate and it is slowly converted to nitrite which in turn is converted to nitric oxide. It is the nitric oxide than combines with myoglobin protein in the meat that imparts a pleasing red color in the cured product. To insure proper fermentation, curing salts containing nitrite (or nitrite and nitrate) as well as starter cultures of known bacteria are used in the production of dry-cured meats.

Note: There is much concern over the consumption of nitrate and nitrite by the general public. However, a review of all scientific literature on nitrite by the National Research Council of the National Academy of Sciences indicates that nitrite does not directly act as a carcinogen in animals and that nitrate, which is converted to nitrite in the human body, is neither carcinogenic nor mutagenic.

Starter Cultures

Microorganisms such as bacteria have played an important role in the preservation of food products for thousands of years. Preservation  involves some form of lactic acid fermentation in such foods as salami and summer sausages;  pickles and sauerkraut; cheese, sour cream, and yogurt. Of course for centuries it the biochemistry of these foods were unknown and considered an art. It has now been shown that a large group of microorganisms (lactic bacteria), normally present in the foods, were responsible.

The group of lactic acid bacteria (LAB) is very diverse and includes such genera as Lactobacillus, Pediococcus and Streptococcus which produce lactic acid and aromatic compounds giving dried sausage their characteristic flavor and tang. Other bacterial species, belonging to the genera Micrococcus and Staphylococcus for example, are used convert nitrate to nitrite in sausage fermentation.

The fermentation step in dry cured sausage production involves the action of LAB on the sugars added to ground meat. These organisms, referred to as starter cultures, ferment the sugars to lactic acid and the acid causes the meat to develop the characteristic texture and flavor that is associated with the sausage.  In 1960, Merck & Co. and American Meat Institute were awarded the Food Technology Industrial Achievement Award for demonstrating the efficacy using of Pediococcus cerevisiae as a starter culture for controlled fermentation of sausage. Today starter cultures are added routinely to commercial dry-cured sausage formulations to initiate and control the formation of lactic acid and drop the pH (acidity measure) of the sausage.  In addition to giving the sausages a unique lactic acid flavor, the rapid decline of pH inhibits the growth of spoilage bacteria and pathogens.

Different LAB strains produce various amounts of lactic acid by their nature. Commonly used commercial starter cultures are either pure strains or various mixtures of Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactobacillus curvatus, Pediococcus cerevisiae, Pediococcus acidilacti,  Staphylococcus camosus. The search for a starter cultures for use by the “home” sausage maker can be frustrating.  There are many health-food type companies offering LAB as health and digestive aids---these CAN NOT be safely used as starter cultures for meat products. The search for sources and choices in starter culture outside the US, especially Europe and Canada is much easier. I have a couple of sources linked on my resource page.  Companies package starter cultures in quantities sufficient for 100 kg. (500 lb.) of sausage; fortunately, the cultures are generally freeze dried and can be kept frozen for a year or two.  One package (generally less that $15 USD) will last a long time!

SEASONINGS FOR SAUSAGES: Seasonings are used in sausage production to contribute to the flavor of the blended meats. Spicing should be done carefully in order to control the seasoning but not overpower the meat flavor of the sausage.  In addition to seasoning, some spices seem to have bacteriostatic and antioxidant properties.  Garlic and nutmeg, for example, have been shown to have such properties.  The chemical and nutritional components of spices can be accessed on the USDA Nutritional Database. 

Spices come from the bark (cinnamon), root (ginger, onion, garlic), buds (cloves, saffron), seeds (yellow mustard, coriander, anise), berry (black pepper), or the fruit (allspice, paprika, chili pepper) of tropical plants and trees.

Herbs are leaves of low-growing shrubs. Examples are parsley, chives, marjoram, thyme, basil, dill, oregano, rosemary, savory, sage and tarragon. These can be used fresh or dried.

Seasonings, dehydrated vegetable include onion, garlic, sweet peppers, hot peppers, mints, and freeze-dried chives and shallots.

Condiments are usually a combination of herbs and spices blended in a liquid form. Examples are prepared mustard, catsup, Worcestershire sauce, hot or pepper sauces, and many of the specialty vinegars.

Seasoning blends are mixtures of spices and herbs. Check spice companies, like Penzeys or Sutton’s Bay for exact mixtures.

Be Creative! Learn to cook with tastes rather than with recipes. Be both a scientist and an artist as you learn to use spices. Start with several herbs and spices, learning to know the flavoring and how it complements different meats. Each spice has a variety of properties not just a taste property but warm or cooling property to it.  Strive to make the best use cooling spices as well as warming spices, bland spices as well as pungent spices, sweet spices as well as hot spices. Flavor is a combination of two sensory perceptions: taste and odor or aroma. The first part is perceived by the taste buds and other sensory tissues on the tongue. It is this area which perceives non-volatile stimuli such as: salt, sweet, acid (sour) and bitter. Secondly one's sense of smell, or odor, is one's reaction to the stimulus of volatile components found in the spice or herb.

The art of using herbs and spices is learning how much to add and how to combine flavors. In developing your sausage recipes use strong, pungent spices such as red pepper in small amounts. More delicate seasoning can be used in greater amounts without ruining the final product. Although the herbs or spices should enhance and not overpower the flavor of the meats used, cultural preferences will influence your decision.

Start with a tested recipe. After it has been prepared, decide if more or less seasoning is needed for the next time. Spice companies recommend about 1/4 teaspoon (a pinch) of spice per pound of meat creating recipes. Only use 1/8 teaspoon of stronger seasonings such as red pepper and garlic. Remember, it is easier to add more than to try to compensate for too much. More than one herb or spice can be used in a recipe. When creating a recipe, start by using only one or two choices. As you gain experience with herbs and spices, taste will tell if others might be added.

SUGARS: The addition of sugar is common to many sausages. Its use depends upon the type of sausage being made. It is often added to help mask the taste of salt used in the curing process and it can also be used as a source of food the lactic acid producing bacteria needed for proper fermentation of dry and semi-dry sausages. Depending on the type of sausage as little as 0.5% sugar is added; some processed meats can contain as much a 2% sugar. Sugar is available in several forms. Some examples of sugars or sugar derivatives are glucose (or dextrose), maple syrup, corn syrup, corn syrup solids, sucrose, honey, and sorbitol. Most sugars except sorbitol enhance the browning of sausage during cooking. Dextrose is essential in fermented sausages as a substrate for growth of fermenting bacteria.

PHOSPHATES -  Phosphates are used to increase water holding capacity of meat products and have an antioxidant effect.  They also help reduce rancidity as well as improve the color stability and flavor.  The USDA has approved Sodium tripolyphosphate, Sodium hexametaphosphate, Sodium acid pyrophosphate, Sodium pyrophosphate , Monosodium phosphate and Disodium phosphate for use in curing.  The use of these chemicals, however, is restricted to an amount which will result in not more than 0.5 percent phosphate from any source in the finished  product.  (meat contains 0.1% phosphate)

ASCORBATE AND ERYTHORBATE: Sodium erythorbate or ascorbate creates conditions in meat which speed up the rate of conversion of nitrite to nitric oxide which is important for stabilizing the meat color. They also inhibit the formation of nitrosamines in cured products.

MEAT BINDERS:  A variety of substances are used as binders in sausage making. Some of the binders in use are starch, soy protein concentrate, and non fat dried skim milk powder. They are added for a number of reasons, depending on the type of sausage being made. They are used to improve flavor, stability, moisture retention or slicing characteristics. Commercially,  the calcium-reduced form of skim milk powder is often used as calcium is said to interfere with protein solubility. Soy protein concentrate available as coarse granules, powder or grits and is used in emulsion type sausages. The content of meat binder in a sausage product is regulated by the Federal Meat Inspection Service and the amounts vary with the type of sausage or loaf being produced For example, any sausage product containing more than 2% soy protein must be labeled as “imitation” sausage.

DRYING: The reduction of moisture on the surface of the sausage helps to reduce the microbial growth not only of any surviving surface bacteria but an other bacteria that may have contaminated the surface during production. Drying times depend on the type of the sausage being produced and can vary from an hour or two to weeks or months.  Short drying times prior to smoking sausage is required to produce a pellicle, or thin skin, that helps the sausage smoke properly.  If the surface is too wet, undesirable and bitter smoke products will be deposited on the sausage surface, imparting a bitter or “off” flavor.  During the longer drying times, as in the drying of salami, temperature and humidity must be closely controlled so as to ensure proper drying of the sausage meats from the inside toward the outside.

SMOKING: The primary purpose in smoking meat is to assist in preservation, development of flavor, and production of a desirable color in the sausage. One of the most important effects of smoke are its bactericidal and bacteriostatic properties as well as assisting in drying and removing moisture from the surface of the meat.  The chemical reactions that occur during smoking to preserve meats are beyond the scope of this introduction. For readers requiring detailed explanation, they are directed to research the “Maillard reaction” at their local library.   Two general methods of smoking are used in sausage production: “hot” smoking and  “cold” smoking.

• HOT SMOKING involves flavoring, preserving and cooking the sausage.  It is generally begun at a temperature above 120^oF (49^oC) and continues to as much as 160^oF (71^oC) to completely cook the sausage. After smoking, the sausage is generally held under refrigeration. The times and temperatures are dictated by the specific formula that the sausage make is using. 

• COLD SMOKING, on the other hand,   flavors but does not preserve or cook the sausage. This process is used solely to impart flavor and color to the finished product which then must be refrigerated to avoid spoilage.  Cold smoking is usually carried out at temperatures of 65-90^oF (18-32^oC). 

WOODS TO USE TO SMOKE MEATS

Found this chart on a BBQ web site and it gives you some information about the uses of the common types .

Fibrous Casings: These casings are non-edible and consist of continuous tube paper which is then impregnated with cellulose. They need to be soaked about 30 minutes in warm water before being used. They do not need to be refrigerated. These casing come in a variety of sizes from small salami to large bologna.

Collagen Casings: These casings are either edible or non-edible (depending on the thickness). They are made of collagen (skin protein) that has been processed and reformed into continuous tube. Those made for fresh sausage are edible, very tender and stuffed dry (without soaking); the thicker, flat collagen casings (3 ½ - 4 inches in diameter) and are soaked for about 30 minutes in warm water before use. They are used for making large sausage, salami, bologna etc. and are not edible.

Plastic Casings:  These casings are non-edible and are used in making sausages that are generally cooed in water.  The plastic is non-permeable to the water and the cooked juices remain in the sausage. Headcheese is an example of a sausage using this casing